Extensive, impartial testing will determine if these solid copper mugs are worth the premium price. I still remember the first time someone offered me a beer while pulling a frosty mug out of the freezer. Somehow, a drink that probably set him back all of a dollar felt like a sincere gesture, like his self-worth hung on me enjoying that beer. The red-blooded Americans behind Handlebend must know the feeling because they serve each customer with copper mugs that fall somewhere between barware and barbells. They’re heavy and handmade, meticulously crafted and crude at the same time.
Curiosity piqued, I asked if Handlebend wouldn’t mind indulging my curiosity with a pair of mugs – for journalism.
Rigorous Testing Ensued
Two solid copper mugs arrived in a wooden crate with a crowbar tied to the side. The logo wasn’t printed on a tag but burned into the wood like a brand on a calf. It felt like the mugs were meant to arrive on a bush plane, not in a common mail truck.
That’s a good start. The real testing began when I busted out ingredients for one of the Handlebend crew’s favorite cocktails.
Following the hand-written instructions that came in the box, I stuffed all the ice I could fit into each mug. I’ve grown accustomed to a simple gin and tonic with a lemon garnish, but this recipe called for a lemon, lime, and orange, so in they went – as did the finest bitters, Icelandic vodka, and ginger beer my local liquor store had to offer.
The cocktail was delicious, as much an experience as a drink. Then again, maybe that’s a self-serving conclusion because I mixed it. Best to enlist a professional, then.
I took the mugs on a walk to a townie bar around the corner and ordered a brandy old fashioned, the official cocktail of Wisconsin. Different spirits, different setting – still delightful. Handlebend was 2-0.
Did you know we have merch?
I walked home – briskly and in a straight line – to reflect. While I pondered, I poured a hard cider into the mug to make sure it could be used in conjunction with other types of beverages. Notes of apple and rye stood front and center. The copper cooled quickly to meet the cider’s refreshing temperature.
“Self,” I thought to myself, “this thing is as good as promised. I’ll drink to that.”
Handlebend Mule
- All the ice you can fit
- 1/4 lime
- 1/4 lemon
- 1/4 orange
- 2 oz. vodka
- 2 shakes bitters
- Ginger beer right to the tippy top
Meet the Gents Behind Handlebend
Some bright ideas come from boardroom meetings. They’re meticulously crafted for a hypothetical customer persona by MBAs, marketing executives, and branding consultants (whatever the hell that is).
Some – but not many. We, the humble public, can usually smell the inauthenticity of a contrived Instagram ad through our phones.
These mugs did not come from a board room. They were born of a college kid (Handlebend founder Michael Stepp) who wanted a kick-ass mug for parties. One mug turned into a set for his friend (business partner Matt Dennis). Then came mugs wrapped as wedding gifts for friends and family and small batches for a handful of customers.
Now, those two have a tight team of craftsmen who bend, weld, and quench every mug that comes out of the coppershop in O’Neill, Nebraska (population 3,551).
If you want a mug, they’ll build you one. If you’re thirsty, stop in for a coffee, a cocktail, or both (this is America, dammit). They’ll even put you up for the night in the Handlebend House so you can enjoy your evening to the fullest before walking a few steps back from the tasting room.
Is There Room in Your Cupboard for a $112 Mug?
This brings us to the $225 question: Is clanking a pair of copper mugs with a friend worth the price of entry?
Yes, because details matter.
The next time I mix a cocktail for someone, I won’t preface it by announcing that I’m a hermit with about half a dozen friends in the whole world, that they’ve earned a lifetime membership to my total trust club, and that I’m glad they’ve stuck around through thick and thin. That would be weird.
What I will do is use heaps of ice when a cube or two would do the job. I’ll slice a lime and twist up a garnish so they can revel in the subtle citrus oils floating on the drink’s surface. I’ll serve them with a handmade copper mug, the likes of which they’ve never seen before, because if someone is going to put up with me, they should be rewarded for it.
It’s the gentlemanly thing to do, and please, drink like a gentleman, for fuck’s sake.
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